The Holy Mountain: a continuing pilgimage

[Isaak Scott Cairns]

I'm hoping to make journeys to the Holy Mountain a regular and ongoing part of my life and my son's life, concurrent with regular visits by my wife and daughter to, say, Annunciation in Ormylia and St. John's in Souroti. I've met a number of men on the Holy Mountain who appear to have done the same. I'm guessing that a discussion among thus-minded men and women might faciliate our plans for this sort of ongoing connection to the monasteries and, more importantly, acquiring lives of prayer.

Isaak

[Paul Cowan]

I would also be interested in hearing from others and their experiences. My own plans to go to the Holy Mountain are postponed until November 2007. That's ok as it should be cooler and less pilgrims. My personal finances will only allow me one lifetime visit so I will have to live vicariously through you all as you visit.

Please don't be stingy with your stories, recommendations and suggestions.

PC

[Isaak Scott Cairns]

Honestly, I think that your going in November is a very good plan. If at all possible, inquire about stays at Xenophondos, Simonopetra, and Grigoriou—all of these are along the southern/western shore. How many days will you be able to stay?

Isaak

[Paul Cowan]

Dear Isaak,

I am taking a 2 week work vacation to go. I know I only have 3 days and a possible extension if allowed once I get there. I don't know how long they will permit. I can only pray for the entire 2 weeks. I am hoping since the "rush" season is over and I promise not to stay in one location more than 2 nights? they might permit me? Alot of hoping I won't know until I get there.

I appreciate the suggested monasteries. Why these three if I may ask? I am hoping to venerate the relics of St. John the Baptist and the Holy and Lifegiving Cross. I think these are both on the eastern side of the island though. I pray to St. John every Liturgy for this very purpose.

I have a very special Schemamonk friend who is helping me make plans as well.

In Christ
Paul

[Isaak Scott Cairns]

Christos anesti!

That time of year (November), you should have no trouble securing an extension at the big yellow building near the Protaton in Karyes. My longest extension was ten days (during December), for a total of fourteen. Do you have any Greek, by chance?

Most of the monasteries have relics of the True Cross. As for Saint John, I don't remember any besides those at Great Lavra and its dependency, the Romanian skete of Timiou Prodromou (Prodromou mean Forerunner, after Saint John).

I mention Xenophondos, Simonopetra, and Grigoriou mostly because there are English speaking monks at these (though there are a good number elsewhere, as well) and because—along the fairly broad spectrum of monastic expressions—these are situated near the end that privileges the light, the joy, and a welcoming outreach to the stranger. This is NOT a criticism of the others, and is certainly NOT to say that any of the monasteries would be wonderful sites to visit and to savor. My own journeys have taken me to all but a few in the north, but my recent journeys have led me to return to these three (as well as Saint Andrew's skete and Saint Anna's skete) where I have made good friends with wonderful, joyful, holy men.

I wonder, does your monastic friend have a connection to any of the monasteries or sketes? If so, I would be tempted to recommend spending more time at fewer places, though having a personal contact with a monastery is pretty much necessary for such an arrangement. My first two trips were spent (without regret) traipsing from monatery to monastery; subsequent trips have led to my spending many days (as much as a week) in one place. The advantage to this is that it really does allow you to settle in to the rhythms of their prayer/life; you would also volunteer, in such cases, to do work (I generally help in the trapeza or in the dishwashing). This is also a wonderful way to get to know the fathers.

That said, for your first trip, you are probably right in wanting to see as much as you can. One other thing: if you're able to do so, walk between monasteries. Certainly, the bus from Dafni to Karyes is a good idea, but beyond that, Id vote for hoofing it, so long as your health is good.

Oh, and don't be put off if certain (or many) "pilgrims" strike you as out of place, or even intermittently impious; this is more likely to happen in the good weather months. My advice is simply to accept, even to welcome everyone, and be very deliberate about not judging others, whether pilgrim or monk. This is the greatest challenge for a man who has come to the Holy Mountain with a somewhat idealized notion of why others are there.

My own pride and judgmental thoughts hampered me off and on. May your journey be more immediately productive of the heart's prayer.

me agapi, (with love)
Isaak

P.S. if ever it looks like you'll be without a place to stay of a given night, make your way to Saint Andrew's skete in Karyes, where Fr. Ephraim (an English monk) is, I believe, still guestmaster, and where you are almost certain to find a place to stay. Oh, and pack rain gear, as well as a pair of wool pants and a wool top, which will keep you warm even if wet.

[Simon]

Dear Paul,

You go through what may be described as a bureaucratic procedure in order to get to the Holy Mountain; however, even then, somebody may look you in the eye, and give you the permit, even when in theory, regulations don't allow it.

When you get to the Holy Mountain, the bureaucratic aspect fades away. I've been there seven or eight times, and nobody has ever wanted to check anything in that way. The monks assess you spiritually, and if you walk from one monastery to another, they will usually allow you to stay there whether you've booked or not. Some Greeks take advantage of this, and arrive by jeep to within five minutes walk of a monastery, and then walk. Not really cricket!

There are reasons to visit all of the monasteries, without exception, and which ones to visit depends on you. That said, if you’re into chanting, go to Vatopeidi. I’ll give you some further info anon,

Simon

[Paul Cowan]

Thank you both,

I can tell you for sure I do have an idealized perception of the Mountain. I am sure it will be all that and then some. And then some disappointments also. This not meant in a negative way, but we all romanticize places we may never go to.

Greek? no. I have a little dictionary and need to start studying it more.

Like chanting? absolutely.

Wool clothes? I will need to look around for that. Cotton is easy. Wool in Texas, not so sure.

I am not afraid of work and am actually at home in the kitchen. I am pretty good in the garden too. I even scrub toilets when the Mrs. tells me to. :)

As far as being physically fit...see the Greek answer above. That also gets kicked off here pretty quick.

I had thought the word pilgrimmage meant to walk so yes, that was my only idea. However, I think I will take advantage of the boat when available. To walk the length of the Mountain with its terrain may be more than I can handle.

Can anyone tell me about the wildlife there? I have heard of wild boars and poisonous snakes and it is not safe or "legal" to sleep outside the Monastery. Has anyone ever been been locked out or not found their way there before the gates are locked? and HAD to sleep outside?

If these questions are deemed by our esteemed moderators to be asked and answered offline via private message, please let me know.

Inquisitively
Paul

[Isaak Scott Cairns]

I've seen sign of boars, heard coyotes, seen a good many small dear and, in six pilgrimages seen exactly two snakes, one huge harmless fella and one small viper. I don't think wildlife is the danger re: sleeping outside, but such camping is discouraged by the fathers, I think, mostly to keep the peninsula from being overrun by mere mountaineers with no interest in the prayer life.

I've never been without a place to stay. The closest I came to that (I wrote about this in my book) was at Koutloumousiou, when the guest master told me there was no room, not today not tomorrow. As I was heading out the gate, I saw that the katholikon was open, and asked if I might go inside to venerate the icons; when I came out, the guest master--smiling--told me my room was ready.

I think Simon has precisely the right take on the heart of the matter. Most of the men who run the bureaucracy are also very keen readers of us slow pilgrims. You'll have a wonderful visit. Go with an open heart, accepting what comes with simple willingness. Things won't always work out as you'd planned, but they will always work out to your heart's advantage so long as you, with glad expectation, lean into whatever DOES come.

kalo taxidi, phile mou,

Isaak

[Trudy]

Things won't always work out as you'd planned, but they will always work out to your heart's advantage so long as you, with glad expectation, lean into whatever DOES come.

This is such beautiful imagery. "Lean into" whatever God gives you. Look with "glad expectation." I love the way this looks. If I could only practice it.

~Athanasia~

PS: Paul, when you go to the Holy Mountain, please remember me in your prayers.

[Olga]

Though, as a woman, I can never get to Athos, I can certainly agree with Simon on the Vatopedi choir. I have several of their recordings, and they are just magnificent.

[Isaak Scott Cairns]

The fathers at Simonopetra are also wonderful psaltes, and have made many beautiful recordings that are available here in the States, as have the nuns at Annunciation in Ormylia, a Simonopetrite dependency.

Isaak

[Nina]

Some Greeks take advantage of this, and arrive by jeep to within five minutes walk of a monastery, and then walk. Not really cricket!
Simon

(Lots of giggle!) Ah those bad, bad, bad boys!

[Nina]

The fathers at Simonopetra are also wonderful psaltes, and have made many beautiful recordings that are available here in the States,.
Isaak

Dear Isaak,

When I hear those heavenly voices of Simonopetra chanting I feel like the walls of my home, or the metal of my car is melting because of the beauty of their chanting (and of course the words and melody)!

I can't live without hearing Simonopetra's "Agni Parthene" (O Virgin Pure) and "O give thanks to the Lord"!!!

[Angie]

Dear Isaak,

Having read your posts, I thought you might be of assistance. My husband is Greek speaking and will be going to Vatepedou monastery. We know some great church friends, and there brother is a monk at this particular monastery.

It is my husbands first trip there and he will be staying for a couple of days. I have heared of the womans monastery near there somewhere.

As you have been there before, could you explain to us step by step what to do once we get in Thessaloniki? We are both Greek and Orthodox.

Were is the monastery for woman? How does he find a good elder to speak to in Vatepedou monastery?

Many Thanks

In Christ
Angela+++

[Isaak Scott Cairns]

You might try to contact the metochion of Simonopetra in Thessaloniki, asking how you might contact the guest mistress at Ormylia. I'm afraid that I'm in Italy just now, and have no access to the specific contact information here with me.

Good journey,
Isaak

[Angie]

Thankyou very much.

In Christ
Angela+++

[Aaron Taylor]

Dear Angela,

Did you and your husband already make your trip? I just registered on monachos.net, and I noticed you never got much specific information about this question!

in Christ,
aaron

[Angie]

Aaron,

Yes. We came back just 3 weeks ago. My husband Jim, loved Mount Athos! I didn't get to go to Ormilia to the monastery for women, but God willing we will go next time. Thanks for asking.

Angela +++

[Andreas Moran]

I know a hieromonk at Grigoriou, Fr Philotheos. He now lives as a hermit outside the main monastery but he can be sought out. He speaks fluent English.

[Paul Cowan]

I contacted Thessaloniki and purchased my plane tickets. I am scheduled to step on the Mountain 12:45pmish November 18th. IF my request to stay is accepted I could potentially be there up to 10 days. That's a big IF. I was told to go to Iveron Monestary first. 2 days after I get there, I think it is Dochiariou is having their names day feast. It is a long hike for 1 day. and longer to get back to the other Monasteries I hope to visit on the SE side.

Any thoughts? My primary purpose is to visit the Iveron Icon of the Mother of God, Venerate the relics of St. John the Baptist and see the Holy Life Giving Cross. Beyond this, It is too see what this life might hold for me in the future.

Angela:

I would be interested to know where your husband went.

Paul

[Simon]

I contacted Thessaloniki and purchased my plane tickets. I am scheduled to step on the Mountain 12:45pmish November 18th. IF my request to stay is accepted I could potentially be there up to 10 days. That's a big IF. I was told to go to Iveron Monestary first. 2 days after I get there, I think it is Dochiariou is having their names day feast. It is a long hike for 1 day. and longer to get back to the other Monasteries I hope to visit on the SE side.

Any thoughts? My primary purpose is to visit the Iveron Icon of the Mother of God, Venerate the relics of St. John the Baptist and see the Holy Life Giving Cross. Beyond this, It is too see what this life might hold for me in the future.

Angela:

I would be interested to know where your husband went.

Paul


Dear Paul,

I'm glad you're on your way. i'm able to go every year, living in Italy. Over the years I've been to almost all the monasteries. Ithink the main thing is to get there. By the way if you want to know where to sleep cheap in Uronopolis, or how to get from Thessaloniki to there, please let me know.
Don't worry about the big IF - once you're there, the IF depends on you. Try to walk from one monastery to another, ask to stay a second night if you feel like it - they might agree, and make your plans as you go.

All the best, may God accompany you on this trip,

Simon

[Angie]

Dear Paul,

My husband went to Vaitepedou, and he loved it. It was so peaceful and calm. He said he hasn't heard such silence! They were very hospitable and he very much enjoyed his stay there.

Have a safe trip and don't worry let God guide you.

In Christ
Angela

[Paul Cowan]

Thank you Angela,

I will try to get up that far north. My initial thoughts are to be dropped off at Daphne, cut over to Iviron follow the coast south, cross over the mountain, and come back up the SW side back to Daphne stopping in each monastery along the way. This may be more progressive than my body will permit, but with God all things are possible. I do have a couple very specific stops I want to make.

Paul

[Simon]

Thank you Angela,

I will try to get up that far north. My initial thoughts are to be dropped off at Daphne, cut over to Iviron follow the coast south, cross over the mountain, and come back up the SW side back to Daphne stopping in each monastery along the way. This may be more progressive than my body will permit, but with God all things are possible. I do have a couple very specific stops I want to make.

Paul
Dear Paul,

It's a big deal spiritually, but not physically to do the trip you've described. If you're realtively fit - I mean, if you can run a couple of miles slowly, it's not so terrible to go to the top of the mountain. It's a long, and sometimes tedious trip from Iviron to Megala Lavra, but there's a beautiful place on the way, a sort of big schism in a rock from which water flows forth. I can't remeber the name, but an erstwhile Saint, thirsty, stopped in that place, and prayed to Theotikos who opened the mountain for him. There is a sort of bower, where some nice people have left a camping gaz and coffee and sugar. Half-way between Iviron and Lavra.

The first place on the West side, St. Anna's Skite, is wonderful, also physically, with it's fantastic view over the Aegean. Remeber to let me know if you'd like any logistical tips regarding travel from Thessaloniki to Uronopoli and so on,

In Christ,


Simon

[Aaron Taylor]

By the way, Isaac, you might also think about taking your wife and daughter to the Archangel Michael Monastery on Thasos, which is a metochi of Philotheou. It's a neat little monastery right on top of a cliff on the coast of the island, and on a clear day they can actually see the Holy Mountain there.

[Effie Ganatsios]

Paul, I see you intend to visit the Iberon (Iviron) monastery at Karyes. My cousin, Ieromonk Paulus is there. This monastery has the miracle working icon of the Theotokos Portaitissa and a treasury of icons and church items that were on exhibition a couple of years ago in New York.

If you meet Ieromonk Paulus (from Kozani) be sure to mention my mother, his auntie Hionia from Australia. My mother's confessor, who is from the same monastery but visits Australia every so often, has the highest regard for him.

Re clothes : The weather in November might be mild but it might also be very cold. Why not include the special insulated underwear that lots of people wear in winter. It's healthy and easy to find, and if you need it, it will be in your suitcase. Or you might also consider very fine 100% woolen singlets. They are also practical and very light.

I envy you. I wish woman had access to Aghios Oros (Holy Mountain). It's called Panayia's Garden but even though it is dedicated to the Theotokos, no women are allowed.




Effie